Wednesday , 23 August 2017
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Fighting the Rust

Automobile panels are prone to rust due to the salt used on roadways and chips from rocks that remove the protective paint coating. Panel edges can rust quickly due to their location on the vehicle and because of the sharpness of their edges. Vehicle owners may opt to repair the panels themselves to avoid costly automotive body shop fees. These repairs can be done in the owner’s driveway or garage with basic tools. The challenges of do-it-yourself auto body repair can be rewarding when the finished product looks like it was finished by a professional body shop.

In this article, treating the rust with a minimal costing and during your free time is highly advisable. The end-result is not that great compare to an actual body works with usually done by replacing the rusted metal with a new one. This method is fairly enough just to keep the rust away for another 2 ~ 3 years to come.

The Method

Step 1
Remove any trim, lights or decals that are near the rusted panel edge.

Step 2
Grind away the rust with an electric grinder or a rotary tool with grinding accessories 3 to 4 inches back from the rust hole down to bare metal. Ensure that all traces of paint and rust are removed.

Step 3
Sand the area around the hole with an 80-grit sanding block or a rotary tool with sanding accessories to feather the edge of the paint.

Step 4
Cut around the edges of the rust hole using a rotary cutting tool or metal snips to ensure every trace of rust is removed.

Step 5
Cut out a metal mesh patch about 1 inch bigger than the rust hole. Apply metal adhesive around the hole on the back side of the panel. Press the mesh patch against the adhesive and let it set according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Accessing the back of the panel to apply the adhesive and patch may require removing the panel or reaching inside the fender.

Step 6
Mix the body filler and hardener thoroughly with a plastic scraper until it is uniform in color.

Step 7
Apply a 1/4-inch layer of filler to the exterior of the panel over the mesh patch and approximately 1 inch onto the surrounding metal using a plastic scraper.

Step 8
File the high spots down with a body file just before the filler sets. Let the filler cure according to the manufacturer’s curing times. Additional layers of filler are sometimes necessary to raise the patch higher than the panel, which facilitates sanding.

Step 9
Sand the cured filler down with an 80-grit sanding block or the rotary tool until the filler is flush with the panel. Blow the panel with compressed air to remove the loose filler dust.

Step 10
Wet-sand the filler smooth with a 300-grit sanding block; feather the filler edges.

Step 11
Spray on a coat of automotive primer. After it dries, wet-sand the primer with 300-grit sandpaper.

Step 12
Spray on a coat of automotive paint that matches the finish of your vehicle.

 

The Story

One fella member from bimmerforums.com, named Seeker has something to show. He’s doing the fighting which at first not many believe that the rust can be cure. With a proper Technic, the end result might vary and does gave a quality finishing looks.

Tools
Tools that need to ease the job
rust 01
A clear visible of rusted area that need to be treated.

rust 03

rust 06
Grind off the old paint job exposing the metal under

rust 04

rust 05

rust 07
Done sanding and grinding the rusted metal. Next is to cover up the track.
rust 08
Using a polly putty to cover up the gap. It’s highly recommended to use Fiberglass Putty instead.

rust 09

rust 10

rust 12
Done spray painted the rusted area.
rust 13
Not a bad finishing.
rust 13
Almost like a brand new arch.

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